
I am sitting in the residences of the University of Onati, Spain. The University dates back to medieval times, and is believed to have been the first one on the Iberian peninsula. The University building is stunning, and the residential complex no less so. It's a beautiful space to sit and reflect. Onati is cradled between sharp hills, so wherever you walk there are views up to the peaks. There is much still of the medieval and renaissance periods around this part of the town.

Before coming here we landed in Bilbao, a city we love, engaged with the present, conscious of its past, and energised by the Guggenheim and the many other galleries - I watched as two old men stood in front of a piece of modernist sculpture and discussed it - I have no idea what they were saying, but they were really into it, gesturing at the sculpture and then at the surrounds, to each other and back to the statue.